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Repair or replace? What to do with damaged jewelry

Repair or replace? What to do with damaged jewelry

Photo: Metro Services/Metro Creative Graphics


ASHEVILLE, N.C. (828newsNOW) — A broken chain, loose stone or thinning wedding band doesn’t necessarily mean it’s time to say goodbye to a favorite piece of jewelry.

Sometimes a relatively simple repair can add years to its life. Other times, repeated repairs can cost more than replacing the piece.

And sometimes, money isn’t really the point.

When deciding whether jewelry is worth repairing, experts say the condition of the piece, extent of the damage, quality of the materials and sentimental value can all factor into the decision.

A broken chain may be fixable

A snapped necklace or bracelet is among the problems a jeweler may be able to repair, but the condition of the entire chain matters.

The Gemological Institute of America notes that repairing fine chains requires removing damaged links and joining sound links back together. The design and construction of the chain can affect how it is repaired.

But a repaired chain isn’t necessarily as strong as it was before it broke. Jewelers of America says very small, lightweight or badly damaged chains can also develop stiffness around the repaired area, and some chain styles are more difficult to repair than others.

That means a chain that breaks once may be a good candidate for repair. One that has become thin or continues breaking in different places may warrant a conversation with a jeweler about whether replacement makes more sense.

Don’t ignore a loose stone

A loose gemstone can turn a relatively routine repair into the loss of a valuable stone if it isn’t caught in time.

Constant wear can gradually wear down the prongs that hold gemstones in place. Depending on the amount of wear, a jeweler may be able to rebuild the tip of a prong, replace a prong or replace the entire head holding the stone, according to Jewelers of America.

GIA says loose stones can damage both the gemstone and its setting and recommends regular inspections to catch problems early.

There can be warning signs.

A stone that moves in its setting or gaps between the stone and setting can indicate a problem. Bent or broken prongs can also leave a stone vulnerable to damage or loss.

If something feels loose, it’s better to stop wearing the piece until it can be inspected.

An old ring may have plenty of life left

Rings take considerable punishment simply because they’re worn on the hand.

Over time, settings can need maintenance, stones may need tightening and worn prongs may need to be rebuilt. More delicate designs, including prong and pavé settings, can benefit from periodic inspections to make sure stones remain secure, according to GIA.

A ring that’s too large or small also doesn’t necessarily have to be replaced. Depending on its construction, resizing can involve adding or removing metal from the band, while smaller adjustments may sometimes be made with sizing beads or inserts.

Older and inherited jewelry presents another possibility: redesigning it.

An heirloom that is no longer wearable in its original form may contain gemstones or other elements that can be incorporated into a new piece. GIA recommends having important gemstones properly examined before resetting them, particularly when their identity, treatments or value aren’t known.

Sometimes value isn’t measured in dollars

The financial value of a piece is only one consideration when deciding whether to repair it.

A relatively inexpensive necklace inherited from a parent or grandparent may be worth far more to its owner than it would ever bring if sold. In that situation, spending more on a repair than the jewelry’s resale value may still make sense to the person who owns it.

For jewelry without that sentimental attachment, the calculation may be different.

Before approving a repair, consumers can ask what is damaged, whether other areas show significant wear and what the work will cost. Jewelers of America recommends getting an estimate of the cost and time involved before the work begins and says repairs should not be performed without the customer’s permission.

The best repair may be the one made early

Waiting until jewelry actually breaks can be an expensive gamble.

Jewelers of America recommends having jewelry checked by a professional at least once a year for loose prongs, worn mountings and other signs of wear. GIA also recommends periodic inspections, particularly for frequently worn jewelry.

Home cleaning requires some caution, too. GIA warns that ultrasonic cleaners can shake loose stones that are already insecure, which is one reason professionals inspect jewelry before using them.

The bottom line: A broken piece isn’t automatically destined for the jewelry box — or the trash.

Whether it’s worth repairing depends on what’s broken, the overall condition of the piece, what the repair will cost and, perhaps most importantly, what the jewelry is worth to the person wearing it.

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