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Fork & Dagger: Small food truck delivers big, soulful flavors

Fork & Dagger: Small food truck delivers big, soulful flavors

Cassia, a food truck outside Cellarest, served some of Asheville’s most inspired dishes. Photo: Saga Communications/Grub Scout


Editor’s Note: Fork & Dagger is 828newsNOW’s anonymous restaurant review series, written by our independent Grub Scout—no freebies, no press perks, no agenda. Grub Scout pays full price, visits unannounced, and takes notes on food, service, atmosphere, and value. Each review reflects a recent, honest experience rated on our 1‑to‑5 fork scale. We aim to help you discover standout dining spots—from casual diners to white‑tablecloth affairs—one bite at a time.

It’s been a while since my last installment of A Brewery and a Food Truck, so here’s the Germanic-Asiatic version. Asian fusion is everywhere in most towns, big or small, and we have quite a few spots in Asheville. It’s usually passable, but something about that cuisine keeps me looking for a spot with an edge, a place that takes things a bit more seriously than the others. I had heard about Cassia, a food truck parked at Cellarest Beer Project, and decided it was high time I tried it.

It was a very cold Sunday evening at the brewery, with only a handful of patrons. We had already perused the simple menu online, so we were prepared to order quickly. The workers were quite pleasant and enthusiastic, and the wafting aromas of the cooking were, in themselves, quite warming.

We then went inside to grab some beers. I was happy to see a Fest Bier on the menu, so I opted for that, and she went with the Helle’s Lager. Both turned out to be excellent choices.

The food was ready just as we’d had a couple sips. A platter of two appetizers and two entrees was beautifully plated.

The pad pok choi (bok choi and yu choi, stir-fried with oyster sauce, chili, garlic chives and yellow bean paste) was superb, especially with one of the housemade hot sauces.

The taro fritters were the item most foreign to me. It was shredded taro (a Southeast Asian root vegetable akin to a nutty sweet potato) tossed in coconut milk batter and Thai basil, then fried. You dip the fritters in prok nam pla, which is a Thai fish sauce … and it was astoundingly good.

The Weeping Tiger (grilled pork shoulder, tossed with red onion, mint, toasted rice powder, chili, lime and fish sauce) served with cucumber and sticky rice was a masterpiece. At this point in the meal, I was grinning from ear to ear, and on the verge of giggling with pure joy.

And finally, we had the Khao Soi Gai, braised chicken legs with wheat noodles in a coconut curry broth. This was served with a side of shallots, pickled mustard greens, and lime.

I could drink that broth every day. It’s the epitome of heart-warming comfort food. This dish reminds me of what food is supposed to taste like, and how it’s meant to make you feel.

Every fiber of my being was grateful for this meal. It was a spiritual experience, and it was the most satisfying dining experience I’ve had in years. There is quite possibly no better food in Asheville. Visit as Cassia as soon as possible, and note that they’re only open 2-9 p.m. Friday through Sunday.

Rating: 🍴🍴🍴🍴🍴

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